How to sew an asymmetrical hem dress

I am loving the asymmetrical hemlines on dresses this Season, and really wanted to have some fun with this funky and awesome Nicole Miller scuba knit graffiti-like textile. By using a more streamlined, classic bodice – it became a dress that I can easily wear for fun date-nights this Summer, or paired with a leather jacket and some ankle boots – a dress that will flow with me into fall. I love it, and cannot wait to share how you can make your own asymmetrical women’s dress.

How to sew an asymmetrical hem dress || tips for sewing with scuba knit.

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This was a paid content post first seen on Jo-Ann Fabric & Craft Stores Creative Spark blog. Jo-Ann paid for the post content to be published on their website, as well as the supplies used. All instructions and photos are my own. Thank you!

 

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Scuba knit is a fabric that acts a lot like it is sounds, an apparel version of neoprene (without the stinky smell neoprene tends to have). It is a lot sturdier than regular knits, similar to ponte knit, which makes it easy to work with. Good for projects that you want a lot of VOLUME for – like pleated skirts, boxy tops, cocoon dresses, cropped jackets and more. Scuba knit is offered in various weights, which lends itself to fun shapes and designs. Contrary to what one might think, this fabric is a lot of fun to play around with. Not being as thick as neoprene, it can easily be sewn on your home sewing machine, and you don’t have to worry about wonky hemlines, like you do with jersey knit. It is a great fabric for someone who wants to dip their feet into sewing with knit fabric for the first time!

 

ASYMMETRICAL DRESS DIY

Skill Level: Advanced Beginner
Time Needed: 2-3 hours

MATERIALS:

• Bodice sloper
• Sleeve pattern (if desired)
• 2.5 – 3 yards scuba knit fabric
• Coordinating thread
• 90/14 ball point sewing needle
• Invisible zipper
• Measuring tape
• Basic sewing essentials

HOW TO SEW AN ASYMMETRICAL DRESS:

Step One – Following the instructions of your bodice sloper (and sleeves if desired), cut out all pattern pieces.

Step Two – Determine the radius we need to cut for your skirt waist. Measure around your natural waist and add 3” to that measurement. Divide that number by 6.28, and that is your radius number.

For example, my waist is 31” =
31 + 3 = 34.
34 ÷ 6.28 = 5.4 radius

Step Three – Determine your skirt length by measuring from your waist to your finished length on both sides. For an asymmetrical skirt, one side should be shorter than the other – determine how long you want both sides to be, add seam allowance, and record those numbers.

Step Four – Based on your skirt length for the longer side, cut your fabric so that it is double that length. Fold your fabric in half so that the selvages meet up. Fold again, so that the top and bottom meet.

Step Five – Cut an arc around the bottom edge of the fabric, creating a large circle.

Step Six – Keeping the fabric folds in place, gently shift one side of the skirt up, so that it is shorter than the other. The short side of the skirt should equal your desired short skirt length plus your radius. With the fabric folds shifted, cut out the smaller circle radius where the fabric folds meet for the waist.

Step Seven – When unfolded, you should now have a large circle skirt, with one side that hangs longer than the other.

Step Eight – Sew your bodice sloper together as instructed. Sewing darts, front and back together at shoulder seams, sewing in sleeves, and sewing side seams together.

*Scuba knit sewing tip – For a beautiful fit and less bulk, I recommend sewing down all seams.

Step Nine – Sew zipper to back bodice, and attach facings.

As scuba knit is a stretch fabric, I did not sew the zipper into the back skirt seam as I normally would, but rather let it end at the dress waist. The dress fits perfectly, and is easy to take on / off.

Step Ten – Once you have your bodice assembled as instructed, line up the top of the skirt with the bottom of the bodice.

Step Eleven – Shift skirt so that the excess waist is all coming off one side of the bodice. Pin where the excess waist fabric starts.

Step Twelve – Create a large pleat in the skirt waist with the excess fabric, and baste stitch to secure.

Step Thirteen – Slip skirt over bodice, right sides together, matching up all raw edges. Make sure when you are pinning that the asymmetrical skirt is exactly where you want the length to be. Sew around, using a stretch friendly stitch.

And you are finished!

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You have a beautiful dress for Spring, Summer, or Fall that is easy and comfortable to wear, while being totally on trend for this Season.

Thanks so much for stopping by, and until next time…

Happy sewing!