Looking for the perfect holiday dress? Today, I have another alteration on the 5 and 10 Designs Volume One Dresses eBook, with sleeves. Sometimes all you need is a great bodice pattern to get you going, and you can then put your own spin on the perfectly fitting pattern block. With an overlapping bodice and collar alteration, you will love the way this dress fits. Perfect for the holiday gatherings and Christmas card photos!
Overlapping Collar Dress DIY.
WHAT YOU NEED:
- Main Fabric
- Contrasting Fabric or premade bias tape
The first thing to do is to cut out your size. Then, place it on a piece of paper and trace it out so that you have a full pattern piece from armpit to armpit as seen below.
Next, measure 2.5 inches from the center and draw a line through your bodice piece.
For the other side, you want to trace again and add .5 inches.
Next, we’re going to draft the collar. Trace the collar the mirror image as you did with the bodice. It won’t go all the way around, but I’ll address that in the next step.
Now, take your bodice and use it to trace out the missing part of the collar. I folded over the extra .5 inch on smaller bodice and taped it flush to the original pattern piece to get the neckline. You don’t have to, you can flip your bodice piece and it will be fine. It doesn’t have to be exact.
Next, use a straight edge to find the center front of your collar. I used the line I’d traced from the fold line of the collar to line up my ruler.
Now, use your wider bodice piece to find mark the new collar will end. Use the center mark to line up along the old center as seen above. Mark at the edge where the bodice piece ends.
Next, trace the old collar, moving it around the circle to get a uniform shape.
Measure .5 inches from the edge of your wide pattern piece. Fold this piece along this line and trim the part that is poking up.
Cut out your 3 new pattern pieces.
- Cut out two of each Front piece (exterior and lining)
- Cut out two Back piece (exterior and lining)
- Cut 2 sleeves.
Start sewing. Sew your pieces together along the shoulders.
Place your collar pieces right sides together placing bias tape in contrasting color in between, lining up your raw edges. My bias tape is 1 inch wide, you can make your bias tape as thick / thin as you would like. Sew along the outside edge of your collar, clip seams, turn and press (You will leave the edge that connects to the neckline unsewn).
Sandwich your new collar in between your inner and outer bodice. Sew along the outside edge and the neckline. Turn and press.
Your piping may get in the way at the edge of your collar, so keep checking that it isn’t caught in your seam. I didn’t mind on the inside, but I made sure to fold it out of the way on the top.
Using the same bias binding as you used for the collar, cut two strips a little wider than your sleeve cuff. Pin the raw edge of this bias tape to the raw edge of your cuff as shown above. Pin to the wrong side of your fabric. Sew them together.
Next, iron your seam, turning your raw edges toward the top of the sleeve.
Turn this seam one more time and iron again. This will encase your raw edges inside. You will have a band of fabric showing below your piping. This will be the wrong side of your fabric. My fabric didn’t have a noticeable wrong side, so it’s not very apparent.
Stitch in the ditch from the front side of sleeve.
Sew your sleeves to your bodice and then sew your side seams closed by stitching from the sleeve cuff straight down the side to the bottom of the bodice. Finish your seams. Add your button holes to the front of the bodice.
For my skirt, I cut a piece the width of my fabric. You’ll have to measure your child and the bodice to determine how long your skirt should be. Sew your short edges together to make a tube.
To make the box pleat, fold your panel in half(selvedge to selvedge) to find the center. Mark this with chalk and press (You don’t have to press the whole length of the skirt, about 2 or so inches is fine). Measure 1.25 inches from the fold. Using your ruler, mark a line 2 inches long. Sew along this line, back tacking at both ends. Press this flat by matching the center of fold to the seam line.
Measure 1.5 inches from the previous seam line. Fold along this mark and press, right sides together. Measure 1 inch from the fold, mark and sew as in the previous step. Press this pleat away from the center. Repeat on the other side.
Here is what my pleats look like from the back side. The finger is pointing to the center box pleat.
The next set of pleats is made the same way, but I measured 2 inches, instead of 1.25.
Baste bias binding to your bodice, matching the raw edges.
Start attaching your skirt to the bodice making sure your box pleat is in the center. Pin the front of the skirt to the front of the bodice until you reach the sides of the bodice. Pin the center back of your skirt to the center back of your bodice. Make small evenly space pleats (mine are about .5 inches) to take up the rest of the space in the back until your skirt is the same width as your bodice. How much extra you have depends on how wide your skirt was and how big your bodice was. Smaller dresses will have more pleats and larger dresses will have fewer pleats.
Sew your skirt on and iron your seam up toward the neckline. Topstitch along the bodice to keep it all in place (this may be very bulky so you can skip this step if your machine can’t handle it. Hand sew a bow to the right side of the closure on the bodice. I used my bias binding to make a matching one.
Instead of hemming, I used 2 inch bias tape to finish my skirt. Sew on your buttons and a snap under the collar and you have a pretty new dress!