She first grabbed my attention last season of Project Run & Play when she was uploading things into the Flickr sew-along group…
With dresses made completely from selvage or bias strips, mini top hats, and other things that were just so creative – it was hard not to notice! The time and detail that went into each design was astounding!!!
She has a knack for creating items that kids will love…
See what I mean? Doesn’t it just make you happy to look at it?
So without further ado, I hand over the floor to the very talented and very colorful Kat of Sew Chibi!
Rainbow Dash Inspired Dress Tutorial
- about 1/4 of a yard of fabric
- wing template and a bodice back pattern
- about 1/4 of a yard of fusible interfacing (light to medium weight)
- sewing stuff
Files to download/print are below. Do not scale pages. And make sure you check the sizing by the 1″ box.
(the size is for about a 3-4T or a skinny 5T like my little girl 🙂
allowances included (I used 1/2″) and as wide as your seam allowance will be. (*again the template I made includes the rectangles. They are each 1″ wide) Keep in mind, a
tighter seam allowance will have a narrower opening (that’s good).
2.) Cut out your bodice back piece(s). I highly recommend lining your
bodice for this look because the wings will add some weight to your
fabric. The way I find it looks (and feels) best is to stitch it in a
certain manner to the lining. But more on that later. Just cut a main fabric piece and a lining fabric piece.
4.) Pin two wing pieces right sides together. Matching up the tops and bottoms with their winged clone, pin, starting from just past the 1/2″ seam allowance edge and around each of the scallops. I am not one for pinning every little thing I do, but it is imperative that the scallops (wings) match up perfectly, so pinning is a must!
(not the seam allowance edge) to the bottom. Make sure
this is as accurate as possible. You don’t want it to be too big because
then there will be a gap, and if it’s too small, it will bunch when you
insert the wings. Repeat for the other rectangle. You can, if you want, finish the edges and line cuts. For the rainbow dash dress, I fray checked them. I don’t normally use fray check for stuff, but if you are using very lightweight fabric I recommend using it. Don’t worry about the wings being scratchy, because it will be lined!
13.) This is what your stitching ends should look like.
14.) Turn under your rectangle and press. I recommend turning the the top of the rectangle and pressing (towards the wrong side of the bodice back) then turning the bottom under then pressing. After that, you can go back and press the long sides under, along the seam you made. Make sure everything is as smooth as you can get it. Press on the right side of the bodice afterwards.
15.)This is what your opening should look like. At this point, you should finish your bodice front if you haven’t done that first, and then attach your bodice back main piece to the bodice front main piece at the shoulder seams and then do the same for the lining fronts and backs.
16.)Final step: Sew the wings to the bodice. Insert your wings and fan out your seam allowances that your pressed back. They should be flushed with the right sides facing the right sides of your turned under rectangle pieces. They should also fit like a glove (not an actual glove, those would be weird on the back of a dress, right?!), with no gaps and no bunches! At this point smooth your lining under and make sure it lines up with the sides and centers of the bodice back. Topstitch the wings in place by stitching a rectangle around the wings, making sure it is stitched to the bodice and the lining, and that you pivot at each corner. I like to stitch around using a 1/4″ seam allowance. Attach to skirt or hem it or whatever you like because your wings are done!! Huzzah! Wings!! And they sorta flap like real wings!
Now let’s make an awesome ruffle tail!
I had the hardest time trying to figure out how to make this look work! Ultimately, even though others tried to help me, I made it work by trial and error and a fewer “tests” all on my own. Honestly, I feel like a mad scientist sometimes!
What you will need for a cascading ruffle tail:
- a yard of lightweight fabric (broadcloth, organza,voile, etc.)
(*depending on how many colors or strips you may need multiple yards. I got a yard of each color on sale. You will have some odd but wonderful leftovers though!)
- a ruler for measuring out your circles.
- matching thread
- fray check (optional)
- woven fusible interfacing
- sewing stuff
To get an idea and some additional help, shwin & shwin has a tutorial on cascading ruffles that helped me a little!
- how wide your cuts are are how wide they will be… So mine were about 4″ wide. I would suggest staying in the 3″-5″ range. Smaller and it won’t lay well, and bigger, well it’s fine if that’s the look you are going for. I wouldn’t do a lot of really big ones though. Maybe just one.
- If you want less of a gather, cut another slit equidistant from your first slit. Now you have two ruffle pieces. You’ll just gather your ruffle less than I did.
- It will be really full so you don’t have to over do it with a million ruffles.
- Wrong sides of fabric (if there is one) will be visible.
|This actual skirt was a twilight skirt I made for a special little girl… wink wink Kristen!|
That is absolutely AMAZING! I am still stunned by this. Well done Kat, I love it!!! Thank you so much for being here, and for sharing this with us!
Thanks so much for stopping by, and until next time…Happy Sewing!